Europe's oldest city is famous for its hills, cafe culture, seafood, and Fado music.
Europe's oldest city is famous for its hills, cafe culture, seafood, and Fado music.
The most frequented pastry shop in Lisbon and they've been making their famous cream tarts since 1837. Get them fresh and warm from the oven each morning. There is a cafe and a take-away counter. The take-away counter can have lines down the street when the tourist buses arrive.
Pro Tip: "Go early in the morning to Casa Pastéis de Belém for cream tarts. These are tarts with a history. In the 17th century, they were made by Catholic nuns at the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, Lisbon. In 1837, Casa Pastéis de Belém was the first place outside of the convent to sell them and they named them Pastéis de Belém. You can get them every morning warm out of the oven, sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. It's always packed." (Alison Cayne of Haven's Kitchen)
R. Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisbon
T: +351.213.637.423 | www.pasteisdebelem.pt
A small bakery making the classic pastry Pasteis de Nata throughout the day. Stop in for a coffee and a warm pastry, fresh out of the oven. If it looks a little crowded, don't worry the line moves quickly.
Pro Tip: "Breakfast is really simple in Portugal. In the Chiado, get a coffee and pastry at Manteigaria. They make beautiful Pastéis de Natas, which are the egg custard tarts." (Chef George Mendes of Aldea)
Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-242 Lisbon
Founded in 1829 by by Balthazar Roiz Castanheiro, this is the oldest pastry shop in Lisbon. In addition to their signature Pastel de Nata, they also make many other pastries.
Praça da Figueira 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa, Portugal
T: +351.213.243.000 | www.confeitarianacional.com
Fresh out of the oven, their pastels come out with a crispy, flakey pastry and warm,slightly runny egg custard that is the sweetest of these three shops.
Served at room temperature, these pasteis have a crisp, flakey pastry and the egg custard is more set and less sweet than Manteigaria.
Pastéis de Belém
These really are the gold standard of Pastel de Nata with the best combination of flaky pastry, set custard, and sweetness. They are served warm and the egg custard is more set than Manteigaria without being overly on the sweet side.
Specialty coffee comes to Lisbon at Fabrica. They roast their own beans and they make everything from cold brew to espresso drinks to various drip brewing methods. If you can't do without your specialty coffee in the morning, this is your spot.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 136, 1150-265 Lisbon
T: +351.211.399.261 | www.fabricacoffeeroasters.com
Buy an all-day travel card at a Metro station and pick up the tram on the east side of Praça Martim Moniz. This is the starting point for the tram's trip through Graça, Alfama, Baixa, and then west through São Bento. With the all -day pass you can hop on and hop off at your own free will. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, hop off at the Church of São Vicente of Fora and walk down to the flea market. A good next stop is the Rua da Coneição to shop for canned seafood and wine, and then up to Chiado for lunch at Taberna da Rua das Flores.
You can't walk around Lisbon without noticing all the cans of sardines for sale. This shops sells its own brands of preserved canned seafoods: Tricana, Minor, Prata do Mar. It's a traditional shop with employees wrapping the cans. Their shelves are stocked to the brim with large and small canned fish, including sardines, tuna, mackerel, horse mackeral, anchovies, cod, octopus, squid, as well as mousses and pâtés. This is a great little shop to pop into on your way to Fundacio Jose Saramago / Casa dos Bicos or before you walk around the Alfama neighborhood.
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34, 1100-071 Lisbon
T: +351.218.864.009 | www.conserveiradelisboa.pt
The perfect place to stock up on local Portuguese wines, Port, and Madeira. From old, unique wines like Colares to Ports and Madeiras from all ages, to young and old Portuguese spirits, like Aguardentes. If you are bringing home gifts, they'll package them up so you can safely pack them in your suitcase for the plane ride home.
Rua de Santa Justa 18, 1100-485 Lisbon
T: +351.218.879.080 | www.garrafeiranacional.com
Whether you are looking for gifts for your family or gifts for yourself or just browsing, these are such beautiful stores. It is worth dedicating more than just a few minutes for browsing. Everything sold here is sourced from Portugal, including the kitchenware, soaps, liquor, wine, sardines, jams, books, notebooks, pencils, pens, and textiles. And they wrap up your packages beautifully too.
Chiado | Rua Anchieta 11, 1200-023 Lisbon | T: +351.213.465.073
Intendente | Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 23, 1100-285 Lisbon | T: +351.211.974.512
Mercado da Ribeira | Avenida 24 de Julho, 1200-481 Lisbon | T: +351.211.368.446
Pro Tip: "This is an indoor market and food hall. The market has produce and tropical fruits from all over Portugal and other parts of the world, collard greens, kale, mountains of different varieties of potatoes, onions, and peppers. Down the corridor is the seafood market. It is really great to see early in the morning -- in fact, the earlier you visit the better. You can kill time walking the stalls and looking at all the varieties of fish. The food hall is in the middle and they have all these little restaurants for sandwiches, or mistas, which are mixed sandwiches. They also have hamburgers, soups, salads, and enormous plates of charcuterie. It is the perfect little lunch hall. What you eat really depends on what you are in the mood for." (Chef George Mendes of Aldea)
Avenida 24 de Julho 49, 1200 Lisbon
Just around the corner from the Mercado da Ribeira is this restaurant / bar / shop that has been transformed from a fishing tackle shop into a temple of canned seafood. There are a few prepared dishes, but these are made using canned seafood. This is the ideal opportunity to explore a variety of Portuguese canned goods, ranging from sardines, sardine roe, tuna, mackerel, horse mackerel, to needle fish. When the weather is nice, you can sit outside. They also offer beer, wine, and spirits to drink.
Rua Nova do Carvalho 44, 1200 Lisbon
T: +351.213.467.203 | www.solepesca.com
Pro Tip: "They serve amazing seafood and you must end your meal with a steak sandwich." (Chef André Magalhães of Taberna da Rua das Flores)
Pro Tip: "This is my favorite seafood and shellfish restaurant of all time. This is the perfect lunch spot. Start with a beautiful platter of hand-sliced Iberico ham from black pigs [Pata Negra], then order gooseneck barnacles and shrimp that are cooked in sea water. They also have langoustines and many different clams to choose from. Sit at a table for two to three hours and pig out." (Chef George Mendes of Aldea)
Pro Tip: "They have the freshest and most amazing shellfish. The perfect meal here is to start with a plate of Pata Negra ham and a super cold beer served in tiny glasses, then move on to a feast of different prawns, crab, barnacles, clams, and anything else they suggest. All the preparations are simple and delicious. Keep the freezing cold beers coming and after you’ve had enough of this, end the meal by ordering a a little steak sandwich seasoned with olive oil and garlic and some mustard on the side. This is a meal I crave all the time." (Chef Sisha Ortúzar of 'wichcraft)
Avenida Almirante Reis Nº1 - H, 1150-007 Lisbon
T: +351.21.885.1024 | www.cervejariaramiro.pt
At lunch, chef André Magalhães serves a smaller menu consisting of more traditional Portuguese dishes, such as bacalhau (cod fish) with chickpeas, onion, and egg. For dinner, he gets more creative. He offers a chalkboard full of small dishes that are perfect for sharing so you can try different dishes made with local ingredients.
Pro Tip: "I love coming here for dinner. The restaurant has about 8 tables in a very narrow room. You have to get here on the early side, because a line forms down the street and often they’ll tell you they aren't able to seat you. There is a little chalkboard menu and the food is Portuguese. Or you can order whatever André wants to give you." (Chef George Mendes of Aldea)
Rua das Flores 103, 1200-194 Lisbon
T: +351.21.347.9418 | www.atabernadaruadasflores.pt
Located in Alfama neighborhood, the flea market starts at the Arco de São Vicente, behind the church of São Vicente of Fora, right where the Tram 28 stops. It is a sea of tables and blankets with gypsies and dealers selling anything from junk to antiques, glassware to video cassettes, local souvenirs to stamps and coins.
Tuesdays & Saturdays, from dawn to dusk
Campo de Santa Clara, 1100-472 Lisbon
T: +3126.96.36.1990 | www.cm-lisboa.pt
Around the corner from Praça Dom Pedro IV aka Rossi Square, you'll notice a small kiosk with people drinking from little plastic cups. They are drinking Ginjinha, which is a Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries (ginja berries). These tiny walk-up windows only sell Ginjinha and the liqueur is served with a few sour cherries in the bottom of the cup.
Pro Tip: "It is made all over the country and is served as a digestif. Ginjinha is a delicious cherry liqueur and there are a lot of special little shops and bars all over Lisbon that sell it." (Chef George Mendes of Aldea)
Pro Tip: "This is an historic little bar (more like a window) off of Rossio Square, where everyone goes to get little cups of a cherry liqueur called Ginjinha." (Alison Cayne of Haven's Kitchen)
Largo Sao Domingos 8, Lisbon 1150
There's just one reason you are coming here -- for a slice of chocolate mousse cake. It's fluffy, light, and airy, but there's a sense of dense chocolate flavor balanced with the lightness. When you do something this well, you don't need to sell anything else.
Chiado | Rua das Flores 70, 1250-195 Lisbon | T: +351.911.810.801
LxFactory | Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300 Lisbon
A cheese shop and bar selling both a range of Portuguese cheeses as well as other cheeses from around the world. Don't miss out on some of the more unique Portuguese cheeses that you definitely won't find in the USA, like selections from the Azores. Ask questions and get a tour and tasting of their cheeses.
Offering a long list of Portuguese artisanal beers, as well as imported beers from around the world. The beers are available to drink on the premises or to take out. They also have have cheese, meats, and canned goods to pair with your beer.
Praça das Flores 62, 1200-192 Lisbon
The flagship restaurant from chef Jose Avillez. If you are looking for a bit of a splurge for dinner, this is the place to come.
Pro Tip: "The sardine amuse bouche is briny and crispy and just perfect. They pair wines with the food beautifully and without a lot of false pretension. I love the ‘The Garden of the Goose that Laid the Golden Eggs.’ It's baby mushrooms with bread crumbs and the gooey egg hit all the right spots." (Alison Cayne of Haven's Kitchen)
Largo de São Carlos 10, 1200-410 Lisbon, Portugal
T: +351.21.342.0607 | www.belcanto.pt
Both chefs André Magalhães and George Mendes recommend chef Jose Avillez's second spot in Lisbon which serves more taberna-style Portuguese food. Book ahead because it is very popular.
Rua Duques de Bragança 7, 1200-162 Lisbon
T: +351.211.992.369 | www.cantinhodoavillez.pt
Located a little more uptown and around the corner from El Corte Inglés department store, local chef André Magalhães (Taberna da Rua das Flores) enjoys eating here for their meats -- O Talho means butcher in Portuguese. There's a butcher and retail component to the restaurant in the front, as well as a bartender making gin and tonics in large wine glasses. The menu is mostly meaty with a seafood ceviche that is a nod to chef Kiko Martin's new ceviche restaurant, A Cevicheria, located in Principe Real.
Rua Carlos Testa 1B, 1050-046 Lisbon
T: +3188.8.131.52 | www.otalho.pt
Lisbon's Press Club and you don't need to be a member to visit. Located in the charming 18th century building with an inner garden and serving creative Mediterranean food.
Pro Tip: "For fresh fish, rich cheese, strong coffee and complex wine. Smoke Cuban cigars, sip port and listen to Fado music until late at night, then wander home through beautiful old buildings, winding alleys and streets paved in ceramic tiles. The music literally fills the air here and the sea air makes everything better."(Alison Cayne of Haven's Kitchen)
Rua Trinas 129, 1200-857 Lisbon
T: +351.213.977.138 | restauranteclubedejornalistas.com
Instead of taking home your kids canned sardines and getting a grimace, bring home a can of chocolate sardines and get a smile.
Luvaria Ulisses has been selling fine leather gloves since 1925 and is the last shop in Portugal dedicated to the exclusive sale of gloves. You may see a line to get in the door, but once you try on a pair of butter leather gloves, you’ll see why.
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